4/26/14
Caron Pour un Homme Turns 80. Let's Celebrate 8 Decades Of Natural Simplicity.
4/24/14
Pandit (Garner James)
4/19/14
Bleu Marine de Cardin (Pierre Cardin)
Bleu Marine, now discontinued, is one of those curious proto-aquatic fragrances from the mid-1980s that never quite set sail but lingered long enough to be remembered and reformulated. Composed by Raymond Chaillan (Ho Hang, Anaïs Anaïs, Marbert Man, YSL Pour Homme) and Martin Gras (Bogner Wood Man, Cerruti 1881 Pour Homme, Lapidus Pour Homme) in 1986, it lacks a devoted following, though online sellers might suggest otherwise. Currently, a vintage 2 oz splash bottle of the original formula, as pictured above, is listed on eBay for no less than $38.21, a price that’s frankly absurd. I snagged my bottle for $7 at Villa Fleur in Hamden after verifying the labeling to confirm its authenticity. If you come across a 2 oz bottle of the original vintage, available only in splash form, don’t pay more than $10. At nearly 30 years old, this isn’t a fragrance Pierre Cardin ever championed. It’s not a great scent, but at the right price, it’s a good one.
I wouldn’t typically bother with Bleu Marine. I’ve spotted it on store shelves and mall kiosks over the years but only got around to buying it a few weeks ago. My interest in vintage fragrances is minimal, but scents like Bleu Marine hold historical significance and spark intriguing dinner party conversations. "Bleu Marine," French for navy blue, reflects a color the French view as timeless, unisex, and versatile. This suggests the fragrance isn’t a true aquatic but rather a neutral masculine scent suitable for any occasion. It’s a Reagan-era fougère-oriental hybrid, not fully aquatic, with a pyramid that evokes clear seawater through a blend of dry amber, bittersweet lavender, and green notes of basil, jasmine, and oakmoss. It features a hefty dose of oakmoss, a natural sandalwood effect, and ample dihydromyrcenol, which lends a synthetic freshness. Spicy clove and carnation add an oriental depth to the composition.
At nearly three decades old, the perfume in my bottle feels unbalanced and slightly off. The citrus top notes have all but vanished, leaving only a faint trace. In older fougères, lavender often overshadows other aromatics due to its longer shelf life, and this is evident in Bleu Marine. Lavender dominates, supported by a dank, mossy base that turns leathery in the drydown. Basil, artemisia, juniper, and cedar are present but uneven: too much basil, too little artemisia. The barest hint of artemisia lingers in the base, suggesting that, when fresh, it contributed a "blue" and vibrant freshness. In its prime, artemisia was likely a key player in Bleu Marine’s profile. I can’t speak to the reformulated atomizer versions, but the original helped pave the way for later aquatics like New West, Aqua Quorum, Bvlgari Aqva, and Polo Sport. Now more of a museum piece than a must-have, Bleu Marine remains a noteworthy entry in the roster of intriguing masculine fragrances from the 1980s.