5/16/23

Tres Nuit (Armaf)



If you'd asked
me twenty years ago if Tres Nuit by Armaf (which was actually released in 2015, but let's pretend for a minute) smells like Creed's Green Irish Tweed, I would have said it's pretty close, especially in the top notes, but that it's a tad soft, synthetic, and thin in the base, and falls short overall. If you ask me now? Entirely different answer. 

Green Irish Tweed has always been an aberration for the brand. It's the one Creed that smells overwhelmingly synthetic, and it relies on its chemical qualities to make it smell great. The list of chemicals is astounding: Dihydromyrcenol (> 15%), Ambroxide (less than in Cool Water), Galaxolide, Methyl Octine Carbonate, Methyl Heptine Carbonate, and on. In isolation they smell cheap, but together they're heavenly. Pierre Bourdon's original 1985 fougère was a resounding breakthrough in masculine perfumery, and a singular masterpiece for Creed, a loudly fresh but also extraordinarily suave woody-floral for men in an eighties style. But with that said, GIT has changed in the last twenty years. It went from having one of the world's smoothest and richest sandalwood bases, to having no sandalwood base. It went from having a grassy green apple top, to having a muted minty opening that resembles Aspen more than it should. To conceal the lack of precious wood notes in the drydown, Creed amped up the iris (irones) and violet (ionones), which resulted in a rich, purple-floral accord that smells great but linear. It also made the scent vulnerable to the likes of Dubai-based Armaf and its well-tuned gas chromatographs. 

Enter Tres Nuit in 2015, right around the time GIT lost its luster. Whoever put this scent together did two things soundly: They studied several vintages of their template, and spliced together their rendering of two different GITs. They used the diffusively aromatic top accord of pre-2005 GIT, which, when compared side-by-side with Lancaster Cool Water's top accord, is nearly indistinguishable, and they incorporated the simplified sandalwood-free floral drydown found in the post-2011 version of GIT. The result smells so much like Green Irish Tweed (and not Chez Bond) that I no longer need to buy the Creed. Sure, Tres Nuit is a touch sweeter and a mite less "green" than its template, and that extra floral sweetness makes it feel more 21st century and metamodernist, but it's splitting hairs to get too into that. If you want to smell like you're wearing Green Irish Tweed, but don't want to spend the money to do so, wear this. Just understand that you're wearing a splice-up of two different vintages of GIT fused into one scent. If that matters to you. 

Many reviewers claim that Tres Nuit smells more like Cool Water and contains a strong lavender note that isn't in GIT. I think the people saying this are just being basic and "joining the crowd," so to speak. One or two people said Tres Nuit has lavender, so now everyone says it has lavender. I don't really smell a strong lavender note, although there's certainly lavender blended in there, as there is with Cool Water. But there's also a soft lavender in GIT, so I'm not sure why detecting a bit of it in Tres Nuit is supposed to make it wildly different. These are all fougères, people.