Showing posts with label Kenzo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kenzo. Show all posts

4/1/14

Kenzo Power (Kenzo)


"More. More Power!"

I'll say this about Kenzo Power: this shit is powerful. One little spritz, and you're good to go for seven, eight hours. Kenzo's fragrances are usually mild-mannered, transparent, unobtrusive, but Power lives up to its name and bucks all those trends in favor of strength, throw, and total presence. It's floral, yes, but it's a powerhouse floral with a solid array of sweet and musky notes that fill a room and linger long after you're gone. If you want to be remembered, I recommend this scent.

Power opens with a crisp cardamom and bergamot arrangement, interlaced with miniature renditions of iris, rose, neroli, and violet. As the heart notes emerge, the floral notes broaden and "bloom," becoming much stronger and more distinct, yet never blobbing into each other. Note separation remains fair for this scent, and I enjoy experiencing each floral facet well into the drydown. Labdanum makes an appearance also, roughly forty-five minutes in, and becomes rather prominent, forming a partnership with a musky amber note in the base. Occasionally the bergamot peeks through the bouquet and freshens things up.

If I ever come across a bottle, I'll buy it, namely for its novelty factor. It's discontinued, and it's from a reputable house, but it's ultimately a blatantly floral perfume for men, and those don't come along very often. This isn't a muted rose chypre that gets passed off as a "floral" like Azzaro Acteur - there are plenty of floral scents for men that exhibit drier, less obvious renditions of flowers in order to appeal to male sensibilities. Power is sweet, rich, green, and literally a bouquet that smells outright femme for an hour or two, and that's a great thing in my book.

4/18/12

Kenzo Homme (Kenzo)


Christian Mathieu is the nose behind Kenzo's first masculine fragrance, and his oeuvre includes the clove-filled Jacomo de Jacomo, and the chypre Coeur de Parfum. His design sensibilities favor spiced woods and dry mosses, and with Kenzo Homme he continues that trend. It therefore comes as a surprise to find many reviewers calling Kenzo Homme an aquatic. I gave it a generous wearing today, and frankly found nothing aquatic about it at all. If anything, it's a fresh woody chypre in the esteemed tradition of Fahrenheit and Lacoste Original, full of dry green notes, without a hint of "aqua" to be found.

What disturbs me a little about Kenzo Homme is its similarities to Drakkar Noir and Horizon by Guy Laroche. It shares the exact same bitter earthiness, and in some ways surpasses its comparatives. Kenzo's composition is based on a dessicated citric opening of bergamot, eastern European fir, bitter sage, and the driest sandalwood I've ever sniffed. The movement doesn't get any friendlier from there; the heart notes revolve around a pungent pairing of oakmoss and vetiver, with biting hints of juniper berry, lemon zest, and caraway in orbit. To my nose the vetiver is most prominent, and the construction is welded together by a coolness that is as nondescript as it is ubiquitous: calone.

It isn't the summery fruit-laden calone we've all come to know and hate, but more of a crystalline cool breeze wafting through the trees, made extra subtle through its integration with other sour aromatics like fir and sage. I suppose if one were to consider all these notes in unison as analogous to the scent of a freshwater riverbank in Japan, I could, in a roundabout way, understand the aquatic label. But as it stands, my dominant impression is that Kenzo is a woody aromatic chypre with a decidedly "fresh" feel. Just because something smells cool and fresh doesn't mean it's aquatic. I really don't know why it gets this reputation.

Overall, I'm not inclined to like this fragrance. I kinda sorta wish it were a flat-out aquatic, because maybe then I could appreciate it more. I need an aquatic with a bitter freshwater feel, but I don't need a chypre variant of Drakkar Noir disguised as a semi-niche avant-garde masculine. Unique it may be, but Kenzo Homme ain't for me.