Emeraude Cologne Spray (Coty)

As far as I know, Emeraude is a baby name, with some gobbledy-gook about being in harmony with nature as its meaning. It's really a French expression for "green," or "emerald." I imagine the name came after the French definition, and was likely popular in early twentieth-century France. I won't go into the long story behind Emeraude because that's been done to death elsewhere, and to be honest it doesn't interest me. What does grab me is how old it is: 1921 is its birth date! With that many circles in its bark, you'd think Coty would put some effort into preserving whatever majesty earlier incarnations possessed, and keep the drugstore brand smelling at least competent enough to match their finer drugstore masculines, like Aspen and Sex Appeal for Men. But no dice - the current cologne spray smells awful.

Coty is capable of rendering cheap green notes very well, so I'm disappointed in the chemical veil of galbanum-esque noise that precedes the fragrance. The haze settles into a powdery abomination of crude white flowers and peach, with the suntanned-creamy vibe of Vanilla Fields wedded to a dry, woody-resinous base. Every note is spare and unbalanced, every accord is piercing and shrill, and a preponderance of aldehydes threatens to destroy all olfactory perception before proper dissection can even begin. Coty can do much better, and should reformulate this screeching mess up to a remote semblance of what it was in the seventies and eighties (at least). Whatever it may have been, Emeraude is no more.


  1. It is a shame that Coty has become synonymous with cheap, drugstore cologne, especially since its creations were supposedly the forerunners for classics. I'm fortunate to have a few bottles of vintage Emeraude (including the parfum version!) and it definitely is the template for Shalimar. I get no green notes from it at all (Blacknall Allen discusses this aspect of the fragrance in her blog post here: http://aperfumeblog.com/2013/03/06/the-emerald-oriental/). Whatever, it is delicious and I love wearing it.

    I'm angriest at Coty for ruining Muguet des Bois. Once upon a time THE perfect LOV, now it just goes thin and sour on my skin.

    1. What's weird is that I recall Luca Turin saying that Muguet de Bois and a handful of other oldies were reformulated and primed for re-release, and he thought they smelled great! I'm still rather hazy on the details behind these "vintage" fragrance names as they're applied to Coty's new formulas, and am unsure if they're cheap swill or sincere attempts to mass market the classics. Thanks for the link!


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