Before I die, I will own a bottle of this. I remember my first wearing of Dior Homme vividly—applying it and thinking, This is not how I want my iris to smell. I knew what I didn’t like, but struggled to pinpoint what could have been done differently. Was it too sweet? Too fruity? Too much labdanum? Not enough iris? Today, as I wear Iris 39, those questions resurface, intertwined with a remark from an acquaintance: It’s better on men. And sure enough, this is an iris composition that feels ready to knock Dior Homme off the shelf and smash it to bits. Once you experience it, you realize it stands apart from anything else on the market.
The fragrance is simply beautiful. The top accord—a seamless blend of ginger, civet, iris, and patchouli—has a perfect balance, with rafters of spice, skank, powder, and earthy herbs that are second to none. Hailing from Firmenich, Frank Voelkl shows incredible skill here, making me wonder if his relatively obscure portfolio is all that keeps him from being a household name. He’s the creator of Zirh’s Ikon, a well-regarded designer fragrance that holds its own among high-quality competition, and he even sold a formula to Guerlain! Ultimately, his work for Le Labo will be his legacy, and Iris 39 is not easily overlooked.
What I love most is how the arresting top notes transition gently into a plush, super-powdery blend of iris and discreetly sweet violet, creating a warm, rosier, and more expansive glow with time. A pert lime peel note subtly maintains lift, preventing the weight of iris from dragging it down. There’s true genius here, but wearing Iris 39 doesn’t demand an intellectual dissection—it’s simply, and effortlessly, enjoyable. It radiates a calming elegance that any confident man or woman can embody, if they approach it with an open mind and nose.