9/13/14

Monsieur Rochas Concentrée (Rochas)



The above poster appears to be for the original Monsieur Rochas aftershave, which was probably the most popular iteration of this particular fragrance, given that it was released in 1969, at the tail end of the age of "manly" Mad Men. It's by the celebrated Guy Robert, whose influence on Rochas’s masculine offerings is strongest here. Monsieur is a crisp, lavender-forward fougère with a pleasantly grassy chamomile and coumarin heart, somewhat reminiscent of Moustache but softer and less synthetic. It’s a well-balanced, appealing fragrance that’s worth seeking out for lovers of vintage fragrances.

Unlike Moustache, Monsieur Rochas feels timeless, thanks to its lucidly naturalistic pyramid of earthy notes. A pert, crystal-clear opening of bergamot, galbanum, and lavender segues into patchouli and vetiver, which hold for about fifteen minutes before yielding to a central chamomile note. From there, it’s essentially chamomile, coumarin, herbal rosemary and sage, a semisweet amber with just the mildest hint of vanilla, and a thin musk. Chamomile’s flat, semisweet aroma shines here, lending the fougère structure a unique dimensionality beyond the hay-like warmth of coumarin.

As a vintage scent, it suffers mildly from age, with fleeting top notes and faint heart notes that give way quickly to the base. The citrus lasts mere seconds before lavender and powdery galbanum emerge, while traces of carnation, cinnamon, vetiver, oakmoss, tree moss, and cardamom appear briefly before chamomile and the base notes dominate. Despite this, it remains brutally frank, elegantly masculine, and memorable for its chamomile signature. Fans of Pino Silvestre, Moustache, and Agua Brava will likely find it a worthy addition to their collection. I tend to keep my eyes peeled for a bottle of this, although prices can be prohibitive for me!