4/13/23

Cologne de Feu (Bortnikoff)

Bortnikoff calls this an "Extrait de Cologne," which suggests a high concentration, but to my nose it simply reads as an eau de toilette, so let's go with that instead. On its website, the brand lists this fragrance alongside Cologne de la Terre, and both share similar labeling and packaging, so I think they're meant to go together. I'll have to try Cologne de la Terre another time, because I really enjoyed Cologne de Feu. 

It's difficult to find a citrus fragrance that lasts. For that, you need to hit up something by Thierry Wasser or Calice Becker, perfumers who understand that the freshness of citrus can be extended indefinitely using the right blend of synthetics. Cologne de Feu smells like something by Wasser, in that it draws out a spritely grapefruit and blood orange accord, which would typically be gone after fifteen minutes, and gets it to last several hours. Intermingled with the citruses are soft florals, mostly a burnished rose, some raspberry tartness, and a bit of woody musk. It's simple, but plays out as a congruent accord that smells clear and fresh and performs with alacrity. 

Is it worth $230? People get annoyed by how often I bring up price. Well, perfume is a game of cards, and you lose money if your hand is short. Bortnikoff asks a lot, but gives you a lot. This is an elegant fragrance in a beautiful bottle, so it's competent. Still, this sort of dusky-sweet citrus can be had in something like L'Homme Idéal Cologne by Guerlain ($100, Wasser) or Borsari's Acqua Classica ($35). But for a quality grapefruit at a luxe level, Cologne de Feu is certainly something to consider.