I recently wrote a review for Club de Nuit Sillage on Fragrantica in which I mentioned that I think Armaf bullshits its customers with misleading "note pyramids," perhaps to shift their attention away from whatever they're cloning. In the case of CdNS, the pyramid is identical to Silver Mountain Water, yet they embellish it with claims that it contains violet leaf and various florals. Meanwhile, all I smell is citrus, green tea, blackcurrant, light woods, ambergris, and musk. Pretty much identical to vintage SMW.
Zoologist would be well served to avoid the Armaf game, and just tell people what their fragrances are about in straightforward language. Parsing the pyramid for Dragonfly is almost as difficult as reading the bible; there are too many things listed that I do not smell, and several things that wallop the nose but don't appear in the literature. The company cites twenty notes, but I only smell angelica and citrus in the top, geranium and rose in the mid with a little more citrus, and a very sheer musk in the base. The fragrance reads as a reconstruction of a wild rose, perhaps Rosa rugosa, a species with an incredible lemony-fresh scent that illuminates gardens and carries for miles, exactly the sort of natural and beautiful floral that someone like Céline Barel would wear (and the polar opposite of her horrendous Squid), an approachable and unisex rose that smells natural. Great!
I would quibble with the price, as I often do with Zoologist, but a full bottle of this smells like it's worth it to me. How many natural wild rose fragrances are there? How many smell so literally and kinetically like the actual flower? The green-bramble theme of the fragrance is deceptively difficult to get right, as the richness of the flower can overshadow the twiggier underpinnings of the bush itself, yet Barel manages to capture the vibe of the entire plant, and she makes it look easy. Dragonfly 2021 is well worth it, and one of a kind.