Iris is a note of much contention within niche perfume circles. The debate centers on what, exactly, this note smells like. Some argue it is best represented by orris root, which produces an aroma distinct from the flower itself. Fabienne Pavia, in her book The World of Perfume, claims orris root resembles the scent of violets. Dane from Pere de Pierre compares it to carrots, noting that while Infusion d’Iris is pleasant, it smells far from natural. Meanwhile, WebAnswers offers a broad yet unhelpful response to the question “What does the flower iris smell like?”: simply, “pleasant flowers.” Clearly, consensus remains elusive.
Infusion d’Iris doesn’t smell particularly natural, and I wouldn’t call it a definitive “reference iris” perfume. However, it offers a compelling rendition of the powdery, rooty essence of orris blended with the delicate sweetness of iris flower. To distill it down: Infusion d’Iris is profoundly powdery. It opens with a burst of desiccated citrus—sharp orange and bergamot—that transitions into a cool, silky floral note. This phase evokes the iris in Green Irish Tweed, a muted, slightly floral accord. Let not the snobs insist that iris cannot smell floral; it often does, and there’s nothing absurd about observing it. After all, iris is a flower, and certain varieties do smell beautiful.
Following this silky interlude comes a darker, earthier phase, constructed from vetiver, incense, cedar, and benzoin, which lend the composition a subtle warmth. Beyond this, the fragrance becomes a study in dry, earthy powder. It’s a beautiful creation, albeit not one I would wear frequently. There’s a poised, almost rigid quality to Infusion d’Iris that feels incongruous with my personality. It’s better suited to businesswomen, particularly those navigating the white-collar world who require an elegantly unapproachable fragrance—a perfume that commands respect. In this regard, it excels.