One of the recurring challenges with department store fragrances over the past decade is their tendency to resemble expensive deodorants. Given that many are also marketed in deodorant form, this similarity isn’t particularly shocking. Bleu de Chanel strikes me this way, with its ashen woods veiled in a powdery haze that is neither distinctly pleasant nor unpleasant. A similar trait pervades several contemporary Chanel fragrances. When I tested this lively tropical cologne by Tommy Bahama, I encountered the same intentionally inoffensive, deodorant-like quality.
The difference, however, is that Set Sail manages to evoke something genuinely fun and laid-back—an increasingly rare quality these days. It’s a delightful blend of salty lime, lemon, margarita mix, guava, vanilla, and musk. The citrus notes, though fleeting, feel reasonably natural, and the saltiness remains pronounced throughout most of the fragrance's wear. Guava is an intriguing note, with a spectrum that ranges from dry and papery to sweet, musky, and slightly creamy. In Set Sail, it’s the latter—a cool, creamy guava that adds a refreshing dimension to the composition.
Released in 2007, this fragrance initially escaped my notice as I was working in Eastern Europe that year, where American fashion brands tend to arrive at a more leisurely pace. I only discovered Set Sail upon returning home, likely drawn by its notable success. My appreciation for it is as much about aesthetics as it is about scent—I truly love the bottle. It’s a substantial, oblong piece of glass in a striking Mediterranean shade of Brandeis Blue. The atomizer is faux gold-plated metal, nestled under a matching plastic cap adorned with a small length of docking rope. It’s arguably the finest bottle in my collection, rivaled only by YSL’s Jazz.
From a design perspective, both the fragrance and its bottle demonstrate excellent thematic cohesion. The scent feels tropical, fresh, and undeniably "blue," while the bottle itself resembles a fusion of Venetian blown glass and a polished gemstone. Although Set Sail is a cologne concentration, it delivers a respectable four to five hours of longevity before settling into a skin scent. Remarkably, it’s also incredibly affordable at discounters. If you’re seeking a summer fragrance with charm and character, this is a standout option worth exploring.